Thursday, 22 December 2011

Kibera


Hello from Arusha, Tanzania! We are currently sitting in the restaurant of our accommodation, The Outpost Lodge, enjoying the free wi-fi over dinner. It has been a MASSIVE adventure day and I don’t see us staying up very late tonight either!
Our last three days have been incredible. We have been lucky enough to spend time with Wanawake kwa Wanawake Kenya, translated: Women for Women in Kenya. The organisation aims at supporting women and children in the slum through education and sponsorship. You can sponsor a child from primary school through to college (Tafe)/university. They also run an ‘informal school’, for children who have not gained sponsorship yet but still want to learn. This project is located next to Kibera, the largest slum in Africa. The amazing Leonida picked us up at our accommodation Tuesday morning and took us to the office, which is in a slightly unsafe electrical-wise building (Will Mac would have a heart attack!) about 2 minutes walk from the edges of Kibera. After a quick trip to the shops for proper shoes that wouldn’t get our feet dirty, Edwin, Nancy and Paul took us on a walk through Kibera. They are all current or former sponsored students, and all live in Kibera. There is no way of really describing Kibera. Imagine an assault of smell, noise, dirty ‘roads’ (no asphalt, only dirt) while either side of you there are a million structures, and I say structures because in most cases, even a throw away word like ‘shanty’ is too generous. There are women selling food by the side of the road and men selling charcoal, the biggest trade as it is used for fires for cooking. The children, mainly shoeless, yell ‘how are you? How are you?’ at you as you walk past, and Marty had 3 or 4 hanging off him at one stage touching his skin. Apparently, they think all people are named ‘how are you’ and will yell that or ‘mzungu’ (white person). I think we were both overwhelmed but asking so many questions of our guides at the same time. But no matter how full on it all was, everyone was friendly, smiling, positive, kids were playing. There was positivity when we weren’t sure how people got from day to day. There is Western influence and assistance obvious everywhere. There are schools or health centres in ridiculous conditions, but run by Christian brothers or sisters. One in particular, the Mary Rice centre, is run by Christian brothers, for disabled children. Our first stop, down a rabbit warren of paths and under a million exposed electrical wires, was Helen’s house. Helen is the grandmother of one of the sponsored children, Cynthia. There are 7 people living with her, in a room the space of 2mx2m. Helen makes beaded necklaces and bracelets to sell to support her family the best she can, while also being HIV positive. It was here that I got a bit emotional. 8 people living in the size of a bathroom. Marty bought necklaces for everyone :)
On our way out, I asked Edwin whether or not that was the standard house for people. He explained that it was a bad situation, as in African culture, teenagers sharing a room with their parents is taboo. As a result, a lot of teenagers seek other places to sleep, which as you know, can lead to kids getting into trouble and as is too common in Kibera, leads to a pregnancy or the sharing of diseases.
Our next stop was at Paul’s house. Paul’s house would have been lucky to be 1.5mx2m. He lives there with his mother, his sister and his brother. Paul wants to finish his education and become a priest, so he can help others out of Kibera, as well as his family. Paul’s brother has autism, and is lucky enough to attend the Mary Rice centre. However, when school isn’t on, and his mother is out selling vegetables to support the family, Joffre has to stay inside with the door closed, otherwise he runs away, and cannot communicate with people to take him home.
We learned so many amazing, funny, scary, truly mindblowing things. Paul and Nancy were asking after Marty and how long we had been together, and then the discussion became about sugar daddies, and how a lot of young men and women seek a white sugar daddy to pay the bills, gold digger style. Edwin told us about the violence Kibera sees and how they are scared it will come again in the elections next year.
After a trip to Java Hut for lunch and coffee (am now a Kenyan coffee snob!!), we went with Leonida to visit their bank, where they are awaiting funds to be transferred in order to purchase a property of their own, which is really exciting
J We returned via the supermarket, which was mindblowing given it was located 5 minutes from Kibera, with a KFC and lovely shops. KFC isn’t as ‘nice’ as home.
The next day saw Marty using his super dooper graphics skills to create a new logo for the organisation. We spent most of the day talking in the office and learning as much as we could about the project and the issues Kibera faces. All our suggestions were so ‘western’; there are so many layers of issues and conflicts that there is no immediate solution. Education is simply an attempt at giving the children a brighter future and a chance to secure a job and move out of Kibera. We were very sad to say goodbye to everyone but will see them again before we fly home :)
Yesterday (22nd) we caught the bus to Arusha. It was a long 6 hours but we saw some incredible scenery. The border made me a little nervous, but already having a visa made it easier. Tomorrow, we begin our Kili climb. We’re excited! (I’m nervous) but looking forward to the challenge.
So we send a Merry Christmas to everyone and look forward to updating the blog once we conquer the mountain!

Lots and lots of love, Rach and Marty

Monday, 19 December 2011

Lion count: 2!

Hello from Nairobi!

We've had an amazing day today :) A day long adventure was had, with photos to come, once Marty has finished photo shopping them!

We both crashed before dinner last night and set the alarm to get up for a quick bite to eat, then straight back to bed at about 8pm. I made it through till 6am, Marty 7, and I think we're on Africa time now!
Breakfast is complimentary here and was amazing! They do hospitality different here, but we like it so far :)
Our driver from the airport yesterday had offered to take us on a day trip to see the Elephant Orphanage, Giraffe Sanctuary, Crocodile Farm and Kazuri Bead Factory.


Our first stop was at Shelrick Elephant Orphanage, which rescues baby elephants whose mothers have been poached, injured or have abandoned them. They were the most adorable little elephants, ranging from baby ones to two years old. They are fed 6 times a day from giant milk bottles and you can see the affection between the keepers and the elephants. The little guy above is the youngest, and he needs sunscreen and an umbrella escort as his skin is very sensitive. However, the best part of the visit was the two lions we saw!! The orphanage backs onto Nairobi National Park, and during the feeding time a Simba and a Nala (male and female for those haters who haven't seen Lion King) just cruised on by. We were so shocked we didn't even get a photo. The keepers moved the elephants out of the way while the lions were walking by. As we were leaving, we ticked off another Lion King animal, with a family of Pumba's (warthogs) walking across the path in front of us. Soooooooo ugly! But cute :)


The Giraffe Sanctuary was established when a species of giraffe's numbers were dropping in Western Kenya. At present, the sanctuary has 13 giraffes and they aim to reintroduce them to the wild when they are old enough. We got to feed the giraffe's and 'kiss' them - which involves putting a pellet of feed between your lips and the giraffe licking it off your face with its 18 inch tongue. Urghhhhhhhh. Was an experience! Everyone has so much knowledge to share, and they are so willing to share it :)




The Crocodile and Ostrich Farm was amazing! We have crocodiles in Australia of course, but we weren't aware of how much we didn't know! Crocs live for 100 or so years, and we saw three different pens, 18 years and up, 5 to 18 years and little baby ones, which Marty is holding above. I held one too, was definitely more scared! We also saw Ostrich's, ridiculous looking animals! They look insane because of their eyes. But they do run faster than we can legally drive in Australia so we kept well clear of them! Marty is taking to the African cuisine well, mainly because they do a lot of buffets and he gets to eat a lot! We had a lovely lunch in the sun with our driver. The funniest part of the stop was a bunch of local children asking us for a photo with them - I guess because we looked so different! They loved the high-5's afterwards, it was really sweet :)

We also popped into Kazuri Bead Factory, which was established in the 1960's and provides employment for young single mothers. They create beautiful beaded jewellery and pottery and all proceeds go towards the women and their families. It was a lovely place where all the women talked and sang while they worked, and the products they make are world class. They showed us a board where they list all the orders from around the world, and Australia was on the board :) We will have to hunt it down when we return.

We were stuffed after a long day and enjoyed a lovely evening outside having dinner and Marty photoshopping the above photos, which attracted a couple of the staff - looks like we might be taking some photos for the website! We watched a movie and fell asleep half way through and had another deep sleep - we're both enjoying being relaxed and on holidays!

We're about to go visit the community centre with Leonida so we will say bye for now, off for an eye opening day!

We're having an amazing trip and we're sending you so much love :)

Rach and Marty xxxx

Sunday, 18 December 2011

Nairobi!

Hi everyone,

22 travelling hours later and we are here! I for one am wrecked, Marty is faring a little better, but we both enjoyed a shower and some food once we arrived at our accommodation!
The flight was fine, the blessing of sleeping tablets allowed us both to get at least 7 hours sleep on and off. We had to do an 'Amazing Race' run in Doha between terminals; they have no joined terminal so you are bussed everywhere. It was very military-like but seemed to run well. We enjoyed the flight out of Doha over some Star Wars landscapes, much of the land we crossed wasn't inhabited.
I was surprised at how calm and low key Nairobi airport was like. They seem to be expanding around it so there was a lot of construction, but at the moment it is the size of one terminal in Melbourne.
Our drive to our accommodation was fun, with Marty asking all sorts of questions of our driver. We got our first 'Hakuna Matata' used in everyday language. Swahili is the national language here, but all signage and advertisements are in English. Petrol is just as expensive here as home, however we're on a much better wage!
Our accommodation is small but pretty, Marty has already been taking photos! We'll hang around here for the afternoon, I don't think they have daylight savings so for safety our adventures are limited to daytime!

Love to everyone at home,

Rach and Marty xxxx

Wednesday, 14 December 2011

Our itinerary

Hi everyone,

I've been reading my Kilimanjaro guide book and apparently we should be able to get phone signal near the summit of Kili! How bizzare! Africa has better reception than my lounge room in Bendigo.
So where are we going and what are we doing? This has been a very long process, with flights being booked in the middle of the year and constant googling and asking for advice.

We're flying into Nairobi and staying 4 nights, where we will be spending a couple of days in Kibera, a slum that covers an area of 256 hectares. We will be working with the wonderful people from Women for Women in Africa. I don't think we can properly prepare ourselves for this part of the trip, and I'm already curious as to what I'm going to write about our time here.
Once we leave Nairobi, we are going to Arusha, where we will spend a night before climing Mt. Kilimanjaro. Only 19,000ish feet or so, won't be too hard! This is where we will spend Christmas and Boxing Day, doing the Kili Shuffle up the mountain. A different Christmas, that's for sure!
Once we decend, we will spend another night recovering before taking off on safari with Safari's-R-Us, a company affiliated with St. Jude's, a school in Arusha. We will spend 5 days in a number of national parks and hopefully will find a baby elephant for me! (I promise I won't bring one home.. maybe!)
After our safari we will spend two days at St. Jude's, a school an Australian girl built, which provides education to 1500 students from the poorest of backgrounds.
And finally, we will spend 6 days lazing on the beaches of Zanzibar before returning to Nairobi to fly back home.

So that's our trip! We leave in two sleeps and we are so excited! Time to start taking the malaria tablets and pack our bags!

Rach xxx

Sunday, 11 December 2011

6 sleeps to go!

Hi everyone,

It's six sleeps until we head off on our great African adventure!
I'm currently sitting in front of Inglorious Basterds while Marty is at the gym and thought I would create this blog for you all to follow while we are away!
During the week I will put up our itinerary, what we're going to do and when we will have internet access to keep in touch with you all.

Talk soon,

Rach (and Marty) xxx