Thursday, 22 December 2011

Kibera


Hello from Arusha, Tanzania! We are currently sitting in the restaurant of our accommodation, The Outpost Lodge, enjoying the free wi-fi over dinner. It has been a MASSIVE adventure day and I don’t see us staying up very late tonight either!
Our last three days have been incredible. We have been lucky enough to spend time with Wanawake kwa Wanawake Kenya, translated: Women for Women in Kenya. The organisation aims at supporting women and children in the slum through education and sponsorship. You can sponsor a child from primary school through to college (Tafe)/university. They also run an ‘informal school’, for children who have not gained sponsorship yet but still want to learn. This project is located next to Kibera, the largest slum in Africa. The amazing Leonida picked us up at our accommodation Tuesday morning and took us to the office, which is in a slightly unsafe electrical-wise building (Will Mac would have a heart attack!) about 2 minutes walk from the edges of Kibera. After a quick trip to the shops for proper shoes that wouldn’t get our feet dirty, Edwin, Nancy and Paul took us on a walk through Kibera. They are all current or former sponsored students, and all live in Kibera. There is no way of really describing Kibera. Imagine an assault of smell, noise, dirty ‘roads’ (no asphalt, only dirt) while either side of you there are a million structures, and I say structures because in most cases, even a throw away word like ‘shanty’ is too generous. There are women selling food by the side of the road and men selling charcoal, the biggest trade as it is used for fires for cooking. The children, mainly shoeless, yell ‘how are you? How are you?’ at you as you walk past, and Marty had 3 or 4 hanging off him at one stage touching his skin. Apparently, they think all people are named ‘how are you’ and will yell that or ‘mzungu’ (white person). I think we were both overwhelmed but asking so many questions of our guides at the same time. But no matter how full on it all was, everyone was friendly, smiling, positive, kids were playing. There was positivity when we weren’t sure how people got from day to day. There is Western influence and assistance obvious everywhere. There are schools or health centres in ridiculous conditions, but run by Christian brothers or sisters. One in particular, the Mary Rice centre, is run by Christian brothers, for disabled children. Our first stop, down a rabbit warren of paths and under a million exposed electrical wires, was Helen’s house. Helen is the grandmother of one of the sponsored children, Cynthia. There are 7 people living with her, in a room the space of 2mx2m. Helen makes beaded necklaces and bracelets to sell to support her family the best she can, while also being HIV positive. It was here that I got a bit emotional. 8 people living in the size of a bathroom. Marty bought necklaces for everyone :)
On our way out, I asked Edwin whether or not that was the standard house for people. He explained that it was a bad situation, as in African culture, teenagers sharing a room with their parents is taboo. As a result, a lot of teenagers seek other places to sleep, which as you know, can lead to kids getting into trouble and as is too common in Kibera, leads to a pregnancy or the sharing of diseases.
Our next stop was at Paul’s house. Paul’s house would have been lucky to be 1.5mx2m. He lives there with his mother, his sister and his brother. Paul wants to finish his education and become a priest, so he can help others out of Kibera, as well as his family. Paul’s brother has autism, and is lucky enough to attend the Mary Rice centre. However, when school isn’t on, and his mother is out selling vegetables to support the family, Joffre has to stay inside with the door closed, otherwise he runs away, and cannot communicate with people to take him home.
We learned so many amazing, funny, scary, truly mindblowing things. Paul and Nancy were asking after Marty and how long we had been together, and then the discussion became about sugar daddies, and how a lot of young men and women seek a white sugar daddy to pay the bills, gold digger style. Edwin told us about the violence Kibera sees and how they are scared it will come again in the elections next year.
After a trip to Java Hut for lunch and coffee (am now a Kenyan coffee snob!!), we went with Leonida to visit their bank, where they are awaiting funds to be transferred in order to purchase a property of their own, which is really exciting
J We returned via the supermarket, which was mindblowing given it was located 5 minutes from Kibera, with a KFC and lovely shops. KFC isn’t as ‘nice’ as home.
The next day saw Marty using his super dooper graphics skills to create a new logo for the organisation. We spent most of the day talking in the office and learning as much as we could about the project and the issues Kibera faces. All our suggestions were so ‘western’; there are so many layers of issues and conflicts that there is no immediate solution. Education is simply an attempt at giving the children a brighter future and a chance to secure a job and move out of Kibera. We were very sad to say goodbye to everyone but will see them again before we fly home :)
Yesterday (22nd) we caught the bus to Arusha. It was a long 6 hours but we saw some incredible scenery. The border made me a little nervous, but already having a visa made it easier. Tomorrow, we begin our Kili climb. We’re excited! (I’m nervous) but looking forward to the challenge.
So we send a Merry Christmas to everyone and look forward to updating the blog once we conquer the mountain!

Lots and lots of love, Rach and Marty

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